SUSPENSION, BRAKES, WHEELS, TIRES

JRZ Triple Adjustable Coilovers with External Resevoirs. 900 lbs front/ 650 rear. 2.25" ID. 8" long.

Thanks to Johan for the installation and to David at sears for the alignment

Comparing "shaft" diameter. Mazdaspeed coilovers are about .5 inch:

JRZ shaft is one inch:

See the Spring doesn't hit the top when suspension if fully unloaded?

Another shot of the front; also see new Brembo blank rotor:

The rear springs also looks like it needs a helper spring. Here it is as I push the spring to the top:

Also at full droop, the front coil-over body hits the A arm, but as the A arm is raised, clearance increases:

 

Rear:

Drill a hole for the rear lines for the resevoirs:

 

 

I jacked the car up with the wheel still on the ground this much -

But as you can see, the spring doesn't reach the top perch:

Then I jacked up the car so the front is completely off the ground to measure the spring to perch distance.

At full droop, there is 2 inches of gap:

Below is an OLD shock dyno of one of my shocks that the former owners "mechanic" messed up.  He over torqued one of the knobs and the minor pin/shaft snapped.  This was 2 years ago. I have to call him to see if he has newer dyno.

The line for the shock was rubbing against the bottom perch so I zip tied it away:

I called TrueChoice for advice. They said I need a "Helper Spring" and a "coupling spacer" would be a good idea too.

A fellow FD ower suggested this fix for the rear sway bar end links due to the bolt not being long enough when used with the JRZ thicker lower mounts:

pic1 mounted, pic mounted2

pic 1 un-assembled. pic assembled but not mounted

Rod-ended adjustable toe links:

Cusco strut tower brace:

RX7.com Poly Diff Bushings:

RX7.com Rear Trailing Arms with spherical rod-ends:

Widefoot Racing front sway-bar mounts and Spacers:

Tripoint Engineering tubular front sway-bay. 5 way adjustable:

Widefoot Racing bronze bushings for the Tripoint swaybar:

Old setup of suspension techniques 1.25 inch solid swaybar with Johanne's spacers and Mazdatrix "Heim-joint", adjustable end-links::

Track only wheels for 2008 season: SSR Competition Wheel, 18x9.5 +50mm. Weighed 18 lbs on my digital bathroom scale. Anthracite with a Polished Lip.

Tires will be Kumho v710 285/30/18 all around.

Street wheels and tires:

SSR competitions (+42mm offset) with Falken Azenis 615 tires.

17x8.5 wheels with 255/40/17 tires for the front.

17x9.5 wheels with 275/40/17 tires for the rear.

 

2007 season tires were kumho v710 245/45/17 front and 275/40/17 rear:

Brakes:

When I first bought the car in 6/05, there was no ABS system and a proportioning valve was used:

I hated not having ABS because the brakes would always lock up on the autocross as this video from Oct 29, 2005 shows:

Right click and "save target as"

In June 2006, we installed a complete ABS system (ABS pump, ABS computer in trunk, all 4 wheel sensors) and removed the prop valve. The line-loc is still hooked up and functional even without pulling the ABS fuse. One item that improved "brake feel" was the check-valve that you can see in pic below in the gray hose coming off the booster.

Brakes Pads:

I think the Hawk HPS is a great autocross pad. The Hawk HP+ is slightly better but dusts a lot more.

The stock system works great for autocross.

On the road course, I think they work great too. I don't have ducting. But also I don't "kill" the brakes because I take it a little easy and brake early.

Stainless steel brake lines:

Porterfield R4-S brake pads AP331 $ 79.95 AP332 $ 69.95 - I used these when I first got the car but they didn't impress me. Hawks now.

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